Renovating Paris: Haussmann & Hidden Passageways (2nd Arr.)
The aesthetic of Paris looks remarkably consistent, but there are hidden treasures if you know where to look.
A History of Haussmann’s Renovation of Paris
Major monuments are framed by expansive tree-lined boulevards inviting visitors to flaner (the French word for the national pastime of “strolling”). Parks are dotted with elaborate, flower bed-flanked fountains. Apartment and office buildings have a cream facade and slate roof. Though the greatest concentration of Haussmannian buildings are in the 8th, 9th and 10th, you can see Haussmann’s effect on Paris nearly everywhere you look.
However, the cohesive architecture that feels so quintessentially Parisian is a relatively recent phenomenon and is a result of a complete renovation of the city which began in the 1850s and ended in the late 1920s. The man responsible for this transformation is Georges-Eugene Haussmann, Prefect of Seine under Napoleon III, better known as Baron Haussmann.
In the mid-1800s, Paris looked very much the same as it did during Medieval times. Parisians lived in cramped, crowded quarters with little sunlight and without modern sewage systems. Under these conditions, diseases like Cholera spread rapidly–during a particularly bad epidemic, 5% of the inhabitants of the impacted neighborhoods passed away. Roads were narrow–cars, pedestrians and markets shared just 16 feet of space. Inspired by the grand parks and streets of London, Napoleon III enlisted Haussmann, a brilliant student from a bourgeois family, to oversee a complete renovation of Paris.
Haussmann knocked down 12,000 buildings making way for grand boulevards, nearly 30 parks and monuments like the Palais Garnier. Rates of illness fell rapidly—improved air circulation, more space (achieved by expanding the city’s boundaries) and modern sewage systems were at least in part responsible for this.
However, many were unhappy with the changes. Victor Hugo, who had a large following in France during his lifetime, was a vocal critic famously accusing Haussmann of destroying the city. The backlash was so strong that following completion of the renovation, Haussmann moved to Italy for a period of time. He reflected on the response to the renovation in his memoirs with some degree of sympathy writing, “Over the course of 17 years I disturbed [Parisians’] daily routines by turning Paris upside down.”
Yet outside of Paris, he was revered—Queen Victoria herself was reportedly stunned by the transformation of Paris by Haussmann and he was seen as a genius among European architects in the late 1800s.
Though Haussmann’s transformation of Paris is often seen as modernizing what was otherwise a Medieval city, other attempts at modernization had been made prior the 1800s which were spared during the renovation and can be seen today. One such innovation during the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries was the covered passageway that allowed Parisians to avoid bad weather than filthy streets.
Duck into one of the many covered passageways of the 2nd arrondissement using the guide below.
Guide: Hidden Passageways of the 2nd
The above map marks many of the hidden passages of Paris in blue and recommended shops and restaurants in each passageway in yellow. We recommend visiting a handful of the passages as described below—this is a particularly fun activity for a rainy afternoon!
Start exploring the passageways by visiting Galerie Vero-Dodat.
Galerie Vero-Dodat: This passage is actually in the 1st arr. but is luxurious and a good starting point for us as we meander north through various passageways. It was constructed in 1826 and was intended to serve as a walkway between the Palais Royal and Les Halles. Stop to browse the shops listed below or for a snack:
Our two favorite shops here are that of expert glove maker Thomasine whose shop is brimming with the most incredible gloves in all materials and perfumery Marc-Antoine Barrois—check out their beloved Ganymede scent.
This passage also includes several art galleries and home stores—check out the magnificent antiques at Galerie Alexandre Frederic.
If you’re interested in luxury shopping, master of red soles Christian Louboutin has a shop here as does Italian leather goods maker Il Bisonte.
Hungry or thirsty? Check out Restaurant Vero-Dodat which has been serving French classics for over 20 years. Ask for a seat outside (on the covered passageway rather than within the restaurant itself) for some great people watching.
Approach the Palais Royal and check out the courtyard, the Cour d’Honneur, inside which houses Daniel Buren’s iconic striped Les Deux Plateaux colloquially known as the Colonnes de Buren. The Palais Royal was the location of the first ever Parisian galerie, Galeries de Bois, later called the Galerie d’Orleans (note that these, unfortunately, no longer exist).
History of the Palais Royal: The Palais Royal was constructed in 1633 for Cardinal Richelieu (famous French statesman, Catholic cardinal and inventor of the table knife). It was later the home of Louis XIII and then the Duke. ofOrleans. Today, it houses the Ministry of Culture, the Constitutional Council and the Council of State.
Exit the Palais Royal along the Rue de Beaujolais and visit the tiny Passage des Deux Pavillions.
Passage des Deux Pavillions: This tiny passageway is home to a few French shops, namely luxury handbag designer and master embroiderer, Olympia Le Tan and bespoke glasses shop Maison Bonnet.
Exit on Rue des Petit Champs and head toward Galerie Vivienne, one of the most famous of the French passageways.
Galerie Vivienne: Galerie Vivienne was built in 1823 and features neo-classical Pompeian style decor including mosaic tiled floors. It is our favorite passage in Paris and is home to the following tenants:
Librarie Jousseaume is an incredibly bookstore that features a number of vintage books. Also Athanase Vivienne - Ancient Books
Maison LeBo is a small batch perfumer.
Louvreuse Galerie Vivinne - Leather goods
Galerie Colbert: Built in 1826, Galerie Colbert neighbors Galerie Vivienne and was the site of the former Hotel Colbert.
Galerie Colbert features a beautiful glass rotunda with statue of Eurydice being bitten by a snake in the center and is today home to cultural institutions including the d’historie de l’art and institut national du patrimonie.
Walk up Galerie Vivienne and turn right on Rue Feydeau then make a left onto the Passage du Panoramas.
Passage de Panoramas: Built in 1799, the Passage de Panoramas features two large rotundas that used to display panoramic paintings giving the passage its name (unfortunately the paintings were destroyed in 1831). There are several antique stamp and postcard shops here, which are worth a stop if you are a collector.