Guide to the Historic Center of Paris (1st, 2nd and Islands)
Overview
This guide is designed to hit some of Paris’s classic sites—Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle and the Louvre as well as dip into some less visited gems that have that Parisian je ne sais quoi amidst the bustle of the 1st, 2nd and 4th arrondissements. Allow a full morning or afternoon (3-4 hours) for visiting the sites as described below (assuming you spend an hour at the Louvre).
The 1st Arrondissement is bounded to the west by the edge of the Tuileries Gardens and the east by the Forum des Halles. The 1st also includes a portion of the Ile de la Cite, one of the islands in the Seine River, which was the heart of the Gallo-Roman city of Lutetia in 52 BC, making it one of the oldest parts of Paris. Today, the area is primarily frequented by tourists, businesspeople and shoppers visiting many of the designer stores along the Rue de Rivoli. Interestingly, despite its central location and storied history, the 1st is the least populated of Paris’s arrondissements—the upper floors of the Haussmannian buildings (see Renovating Paris below) are primarily used for commercial purposes.
A Perfect Day in the Historic Center
Begin your day with a walk of the Ile Saint Louis (see directly below), grabbing a coffee or a Berthillon ice cream at one of the many terraces overlooking the Ile de la Cite. Cross the Pont Saint Louis to explore the Ile de la Cite, stopping to admire the facade of Notre Dame, visit Sainte Chapelle and walk around the Conciergerie. If you’re in need of a shopping break, stop by Art Nouveau masterpiece and temple to luxury French fashion, La Samaritane before making your way through toward the Louvre for an afternoon visit (afternoons and evenings when the museum are open late are the best times to go). Enjoy a bottle of wine in the Tuileries Gardens or at the chic outdoor bar at Loulou. In depth details and other notable attractions below.
Major Attractions and Museums
Walk the Ile Saint Louis
Start exploring Central Paris at Square Barye on the southeastern point of the Ile Saint Louis.
Ile Saint Louis: The charming Ile Saint Louis is one of the two islands in the middle of the Seine river. It is one of our favorite places in Paris because of its neighborhood feel despite its central location just steps away from the bustling Ile de La Cite. Stroll along the main boulevard, the Rue Saint-Louis-en-Ile, ducking along side streets to see the former homes of some of Paris’s famous residents and experience a little joie de vivre, which are listed below from east to west:
Square Barye: Located at the southeastern point of the island, Square Barye is named for 19th century French sculptor Antoine-Louis Barye whose subject matter was predominantly animals (several of which are featured in the Musee D’Orsay). This quaint square is often empty and has several benches perfect for enjoying a snack or a bottle of wine while taking in the sweeping views of the Seine.
Hotel Lambert: Construction of the beautiful Hotel Lambert and its notable rotunda began in 1640 under the direction of royal architect Louis Le Vau. Following completion of construction in 1644, the interior was sumptuously decorated. Hotel Lambert is not open to the public, but a bit on its history below:
1640s-1650s: Charles Le Brun, who would later create the famed Hall of Mirrors at Versailles for King Louis XIV, painted the Galerie d’ Hercule and French painter Eustache Le Sueur painted five canvases for display inside featuring themes of love and marraige—you can view several of the original panels including the Muse Terpsichore and the Birth of Cupid at the Louvre.
1740s: The Marquise du Chatelet and her lover, famed French writer Volatire, used the Hotel Lambert as their Paris residence when in the city, hosting famed salons.
1843: Prince Adam Jerzy Czartoryski, leaders of the liberal aristocratic faction of the Great Emigration from Poland, purchased the hotel, which became a political discussion club and site for the preservation and promotion of Polish culture (giving way to the Polish library on the Quai d’Orleans nearby). Many renowned historical figures visited the Hotel Lambert during this time including Frederic Chopin (who composed “La Polonaise” expressly for the Polish ball held annually at the Hotel Lambert), Honore de Balzac, Franz Liszt and Eugene Delacroix.
1975: The hotel is sold to Baron Guy de Rothschild who used it with his family as their Paris residence.
2007: Hotel Lambert is purchased by Prince Abdullah bin Khalifa al-Thani, brother of the Emir of Qatar, for the staggering sum of 80 million Euro. He planned a controversial renovation of the hotel which was ultimately re-negotiated and started in 2010.
2013: A fire severely damaged the Hotel Lambert including the Galerie d’Hercule and several ceiling frescoes by Eustache Le Sueur.
2022: The hotel was sold to French telecom billionaire and art collector Xavier Niel for more than 200 million Euro and now serves as headquarters for Niel’s cultural foundation.
24 Quai de Bethune: The Hotel Hesselin formerly located at 24 Quai de Bethune was also designed by Louis Le Vau and was constructued at approximately the same time as the Hotel Lambert and was named for the Duke of Sully, Maximillen de Bethune (who is also commemorated by the Pont de Sully). The only remnants of the Hotel Hesselin are the carved masks of lions on the wooden door, as the private mansion was torn down in the 1930s by American cosmetics magnate Helena Rubenstein. Later, French president Georges Pompidou had his personal residence at 24 Quai de Bethune. Nobel Prize-winning physicist Marie Curie lived just down the street at 36 Quai de Bethune from 1912 until her death in 1936.
Saint Louis Church on the Island: Dedicated to Louis the IX of France, Saint Louis en Ile is a Roman Catholic parish constructed between 1664 and 1725. The church features 17th century French Baroque style architecture, though many of the adornments were taken during the French Revolution. The church was designed by assistant to Louis Le Vau, Francois Le Vau.
Notably, the facade of the church does not face west toward the Vatican, which was typical of churches during this period. This is because the architect died soon after the project began and was replaced by a succession of three architects. In the meantime, the partially-constructed roof of the church was damaged. These happenings caused delays and houses were built next to the church, taking the space originally intended for the west front. Indeed, it to 60 years for the church to be completed. And just 13 years after completion, in 1740, the original bell tower was destroyed by strong winds during a storm and was replaced by the openwork tower you see today, which allows strong winds to pass through.
Quai d’Orleans: The Quai d’Orleans is home to the Polish Library (6 Quai d‘Orleans) and houses museums to significant Polish artists: the Salon Frederic Chopin, the Adam Mickiewicz Museum and the Boleslaw Biegas Art collection. In addition, the Quai d’Orleans is home to Marcel Proust’s fictional protagonist, Charles Swann, in Remembrance of Things Past.
Shops & Snacks: The Ile Saint Louis is particularly special because it is a true Parisian neighborhood today and is filled with lovely shops that have not been spoiled by crowds, our favorites (which are also marked on the above map) are:
Berthillon - Ice cream
Maison Moinet - Confectioneiry
La Cure Gourmand - Gourmet food shop
Noir - Hip coffee shop
La Ferme Saint-Aubin - Cheese shop
Boulangerie Saint Louis - Bakery
Dining: Enjoy lunch on the island at the famed and classically French Le Saint Regis or L’Orangerie Paris L’ile St Louis.
Cross the Pont St. Louis until you reach the Ile de la Cite. Ahead of you and to the left will be the Cathedral of Notre Dame. Further along, you will see Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie.
The Cathedral of Notre Dame
Notre-Dame de Paris, meaning "Our Lady of Paris," stands as a medieval Catholic cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary, showcasing exemplary French Gothic architecture. Its distinctive features include pioneering structural elements, vibrant rose windows, and rich sculptural adornments. The cathedral is renowned for its three pipe organs, including a historic one, and imposing church bells.
Historical Timeline:
4th Century: Romans erect the Temple of Jupiter, later replaced by the Cathedral of Saint Étienne by the Germanic Franks.
1163: Bishop Maurice de Sully initiates construction of Notre-Dame, specifying Gothic style.
1182/1185: Completion of the choir and clerestory with rose windows.
1270: Pierre de Montreuil finishes the south transept, marking the end of construction.
1345: Dedication mass of Notre-Dame.
1790: During the French Revolution, the Communards remove precious metals from the cathedral.
1793: Converted into the Temple of Reason.
1801–1802: Napoleon restores the cathedral's use to the Catholic Church.
1804: Napoleon crowns himself Emperor at Notre-Dame.
1805: Conceded the honor of minor basilica by Pope Pius VII.
1844–1864: Major restoration by Lassus and Viollet-le-Duc in the original Gothic style.
1871: Unsuccessful attempt to burn the cathedral during the Paris Commune.
1944: General de Gaulle celebrates the Liberation of Paris at Notre-Dame.
2019: Fire damages the roof and spire.
2021: Reconstruction begins after the fire.
2024: Expected reopening of the Cathedral in December.
The Facade & Portals: The iconic facade of Notre Dame showcases three meticulously designed portals. Built in the 13th century and later restored, the western facade's harmonious proportions, combining vertical and horizontal elements, reflect a technological marvel of its time.
Left Portal (Virgin): Depicts the life of the Virgin Mary, featuring St. Denis, Paris's first bishop, and scenes of Adam and Eve.
Off with his Head: St. Denis, Paris’s first bishop and patron saint, is holding his own head just to the left of the door on this portal. After successfully converting Roman pagans living in the area to Christianity, he was beheaded. The story goes that following his beheading, St. Denis stood up and carried his head to Montmartre where he eventually died.
Central Portal (Last Judgment): A vertical triptych portraying resurrection, judgment, Christ, apostles, and a hierarchical representation of French society.
The Great Equalizer: Beneath these souls notice the angels with trumpets walking the dead from their graves. Among the dead are representations of every echelon of French society–from royals to peasants to clergy.
Right Portal (Saint Anne): Features the oldest surviving sculpture, dating to the 12th century, depicting the Virgin Mary sitting on a throne, with the Christ child held in her arms.
Gallery of Kings: A horizontal band above the portals illustrates 28 kings of Judea, preceding Jesus. These were mistaken for portrayals of French royals and mutilated (primarily via decapitation) during the Revolution. The original heads were buried by a local nearby and 21 of the original heads were found in 1977. These are on display at the Cluny Museum. Today, the gallery of kings includes restorations and new statues with inscriptions dating to the 19th century.
Top Section and Towers:
Gallery of the Virgin: Crowned with an openwork balustrade, it precedes the West Rose window, showcasing images of Adam and Eve.
Grande Galerie: Connects the towers at their foundations, adorned with hidden images of demons and birds.
Square Towers (69 meters high): Accessible by 422 steps, offering panoramic views of Paris. Built in the 13th century, they were considered for spires but remained unconstructed. Instead, they house bronze bells and the notable "Bourdon Emmanuel" bell.
Existing Note Dame: Past Notre Dame on the East side of the Ile de La Cite is Sainte-Chapelle, recognizable by its dramatic and pointy steeple. Walk towards it.
Sainte Chapelle
Sainte-Chapelle, meaning "holy chapel," is a Gothic-style royal chapel renowned for its architectural brilliance.
Going Places Tip: The best way to see Sainte-Chapelle is by attending one of the classical music concerts hosted in the evenings (view the schedule and purchase tickets here), but you may also visit during the daytime with a pre-purchased timed-entry ticket. You may purchase a ticket here; admission to Sainte-Chapelle is also included in the Paris Museum Pass.
History: Sainte-Chapelle was consecrated on April 26, 1248. Construction was commissioned by King Louis IX of France who sought to use it as a house for several relics including Christ’s crown of thorns. The chapel was built in just six years under the vision of one architect in stark contrast to Notre Dame, which was built over the course of 200 years.
Architectural Observations: From the outside, Sainte-Chapelle looks somewhat disjointed. The brutal, muscular facade is more about form than function, lacking the intricate sculpture that was typical of other Gothic cathedrals like Notre Dame. The main exterior point of interest, the intricate neo-Gothic spire is a later addition dating to the 19th century.
The inside of the chapel, however, is another story. Sainte-Chapelle features 15 panels of stained glass, amounting to 6,500 feet. Two thirds of the glass are 13th century originals and portray 1,113 mostly Biblical scenes spanning from the creation story to the crucifixion. Artisans used only five colors in crafting the window scenes—blue, red, green, purple and yellow. The dramatic, rainbow effect comes from the light. Hearkening back to the first words of the creation story, “let there be light,” it is divine light that transforms a room filled with glass panels into a jewel-box of light.
Viewer’s Guide to the Windows: The 15 windows are arranged chronologically. Stand at the entrance of Sainte-Chapelle and work clockwise to view the following scenes:
Biblical Scenes
Genesis creation story and the story of Adam and Eve.
The exodus of the Israelites from Egypt—note the portrayal of the parting of the Red Sea and the story of Moses—you can see him as a baby in a basket being placed in a river. Subsequently, he is found by the Pharaoh’s daughter. Later, he is a price of Egypt.
The march out of Egypt and the coronation of the Kings of Israel.
The settlement of the Jews in the promised land.
The story of Samson’s luscious hair and Delilah.
The prophetic book of Isaiah in which Jesse describes the genealogy of Jesus, Mary and King David.
The childhood of Jesus as seen through the perspective of St. John the Evangelist.
The Passion of Christ is depicted directly behind the raised altar and highlights the last summer, the crown of thorns in the center and Pentecost.
The life of John the Baptist.
The destruction of Jerusalem based on the book of Ezekiel.
The fall of Jerusalem as seen by the prophet Jeremiah. This window also features scenes from the book of Tobias which were particularly meaningful to King Louis IX.
The saving of the town of Bethulia from the siege of the Assyrians. The tempting of Job by Satan.
The story of Esther.
The Kings of Israel, particularly Saul, David and Solomon.
The story of the relics—this window portrays King Louis IX (later canonized as St. Louis) as successor to the Biblical rulers. It depicts the finding of the relic in Jerusalem by St. Helena, their journey to Byzantium, their purchase by St. Louis and their final resting place in Sainte-Chapelle.
The vision of the apocalypse as told by St. John on the rose window.
The Altar & Sainte-Chapelle by the Dollar: You may notice the alar at Sainte-Chapelle is raised particularly high up. In fact, it was only accessible via staircase to the priest at king. The altar was designed with the idea of displaying and honoring the crown of thorns in mind. Speaking of the crown of thorns, King Louis IX purchased the relic for the modern-day equivalent of 500 million Euro. He also commissioned a gem-covered shrine to display it in for 370 million Euro. The cost of building Sainte-Chapelle itself is estimated to be 150 million Euro (adjusted to today’s currency).
Exiting Sainte-Chapelle: Stepping out of Sainte-Chappele you will notice you are in a complex of government buildings. This area has housed government buildings since ancient Roman times. The only surviving Medieval portions are Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie prison which we will visit next. You will notice security is generally tight in this area as Sainte-Chappelle is located next door to the Palais de Justice, which is where the French Supreme Court meets.
The Conciergerie
You may visit the Conciergerie with pre-purchased tickets, available here, or using the Paris Museum Pass. However, given that only a limited portion of this site is open to the public (the majority is used for judicial and administrative purposes), we recommend viewing this monument from the outside and reading a little about its history below.
History: The roots of the Conciergeries date back to the 6th century when it served as a royal building during the reign of King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II transformed the Palais de la Cité (as the site was known) into the seat of royal power during the Capetian Dynasty, retaining this role until the 14th century. Under Louis IX, a chapel was added, and during Philip IV's reign, administrative buildings were incorporated. With the construction of the Louvre Palace in the 14th century, Charles V abandoned the Palais de la Cité, leading to the Conciergerie's conversion into a royal prison, chancellery, and Parliament seat.
The French Revolution: During the French Revolution and "The Terror" (1793-1795), the Conciergerie housed and tried many political prisoners, including Marie Antoinette. Today, you can view Marie Antoinette’s cell, reconstructed to reflect her final months. You can also view various cells, dungeons, and wardens' offices, with period furniture, which provide insight into the lives of prisoners.
Exiting the Conciergerie & History of the Pont Neuf: Exit the Conciergerie and proceed toward the Pont Neuf. The Pont Neuf, meaning “new bridge”, is (ironically) the oldest standing bridge across the Seine. The first stone of the bridge was laid in 1578 by King Henry III, marking the beginning of construction, which continued until 1588 when building stalled due to religious and political unrest. The project resumed over 10 years later and was completed in 1607.
La Samaritaine
Just across the Pont Neuf find La Samaritaine, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau design and now a luxury department store owned by LVMH. Pop in to check out the stunning interior, fabulous fashions and stop stop for a treat with a view at Voyage.
History: The history of the Samaritaine dates back to 1603 when King Henry IV commissioned the construction of a pump house on the Pont Neuf bridge. This was decorated with a statute of the Samaritan woman from St. John’s Gospel.
In 1870, Ernest Cognacq opened his shop, called La Samaritaine, on Rue du Pont-Neuf. Within five years, the store’s revenues topped one million francs. Shortly after opening the store, Cognacq married Marie-Louise Jay who was the lead female sales assistant for dressmaking at Le Bon Marche.
Between 1890-1910, Ernest Cognacq acquires additional parcels of land near his shop and commissions Frantz Jourdain to design and built an Art Nouveau building. The store opens shortly after Cognacq’s death. The store becomes known for not only selling the latest fashions but also includes home goods, musical instruments, pastries and candies, flowers and plants, wines and the best products from across France.
In 2001, LVMH acquired a majrotiy interest in La Samaritaine. In 2005, the store closes for 16 years due to failure to meet safety codes. With the help of Japanese architectural firm Sanaa, the firm reopened just after its 150th anniversary in 2021. The Samaritaine is no longer simply a retailer, but features a luxury hotel and gourmet dining options as well.
Step into La Samaritaine and enjoy some shopping, a snack on their top floor and a wonderful view of Paris from their (free) observation deck.
Meals & Snacks: La Samaritaine features a number of options for quick bites or a sit down meal. Of particular note are chic Parisian roastery Zinc by Brulerie des Gobelins for coffee and an outpost of the famed Pierre Herme for macarons. La Samaritaine’s restaurant Voyage is a great place for a drink under the store’s iconic glass roof.
Exiting La Samaritaine: Once you’re ready to leave, head over toward the Louvre.
The Louvre
The Louvre is the most popular tourist destination in Paris, hosting over 10 million visitors per year and is the world’s second largest museum. This makes planning your visit especially important to avoid famously long lines—follow these tips for visiting the Louvre with ease.
Timed Tickets Required: The Louvre requires all visitors to enter within the window specified on your ticket. To have the greatest selection of times available, book at least a few days in advance, if not more. Though there are lines to buy tickets on site, they are long and day-of tickets frequently sell out. You may enter at the pyramids up to 30 minutes before your timed entry slot. Tickets may be purchased in advance here and admission to the Louvre is also included in the Paris Museum Pass. However, holders of the Paris Museum Pass must reserve a time slot in advance here to guarantee entry. Note that there is no re-entry into the Louvre once your ticket has been scanned. Also a bonus—within 48 hours of using your Louvre ticket you are also eligible for admission to the Musee National Eugene-Delacroix.
When to Visit: The Louvre is always amazing, but the heaviest crowds are in the mornings and on Sunday, Monday (when many other attractions in Paris are closed) and Wednesday. The Louvre stays open late one or two nights per week (currently Fridays) which makes for a quieter and more magical visit (doors close 30 minutes before closing). Otherwise, the best day to visit is typically Thursday. If you are aiming to visit a particular room or exhibit, be sure to check out the room closure schedule here to ensure the pieces you are hoping to view are accessible.
Entering the Louvre: The main entrance to the Lourve is the famous glass Pyramid. Anyone can enter here, including those looking to buy a ticket. Also make sure you are waiting in the line that is for people who already have tickets, rather than a tickey buying line. There are three other entrances that may be used by the following guests:
Carousel Entrance (underground): May be used by all visitors with a ticket or membership card via the Carrousel du Louvre shopping mall. Enter at 99 Rue de Rivoli from the Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre Metro stop or via the TUileries Garden. Walk towards the inverted pyramid (not toward the Passholders entrance).
Richelieu Entrance: Group tours and visitors with the following membership cards: Amis du Lourve, Carte Louvre Education et Formation, Ministere de la Culture, ICOM may use this entrance.
Port Des Lions: Any ticket holder may enter here unless you have a large bag or helmet. This entrance is closed on Fridays.
History of the Louvre Museum
Chronological Overview:
1190: Philippe Auguste initiates the construction of the Louvre as a fortress with defensive walls.
1364: The Louvre transforms into a royal residence.
1595-1610: Construction of the Grande Galerie during Henri IV's reign.
1791: During the French Revolution, the Louvre is decreed to become a museum of the arts.
1793: Muséum Central des Arts inaugurated, marking the Louvre's transition into a public museum.
1981-1989: The Pyramids are constructed, enhancing visitor experience and museum accessibility.
2012: Inauguration of the Department of Islamic Art.
2022: Creation of the Department of Byzantine and Eastern Christian Art.
Present: The Louvre is home to nine curatorial departments–Egyptian Antiquities; Near Eastern Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan and Roman Antiquities; Paintings; Sculptures; Decorative Arts; Prints and Drawings; Islamic Art; and now Byzantine and Eastern Christian Art–and 33,000 works.
High Level Overview: The Louvre houses an impression collection of art covering the periods up until the 19th century. For works from the mid-19th century and later, visit the Musee D’Orsay.
Cour Napoleon - The center of the Louvre complex is the Louvre Pyramid, which sits in the middle of the Cour Napoleon.
Denon Wing - Between the Cour Napoleon and the Seine are a series of buildings named after the Louvre’s first director, Vivant Denon. From the Cour Napoleon you can see the Pavillion de Flore, so-called due to the exterior relief depicting Flora, the mythical goddess of flowering plants. This Pavillion is not open to the public–instead, it includes several apartments inhabited by the director of the Louvre as well as several other personnel. In addition, the long stretch of buildings on the south side of the courtyard is the Grand Galerie, which currently houses the museum’s collection of Italian paintings. The Denon wing also includes Greek and Roman antiquities as well as Italian, French and Spanish paintings.
Richelieu Wing - Opposite the Denon Wing is the Richelieu wing, housed between the rue de Rivoli and the Cour Napoleo and named after Cardinal Richelieu. This wing contains sculptures (namely the beautiful Cour Marly filled with 17th and 18th century French sculptures), decorative arts and French, German and Northern European art.
Cour Carree & Sully Wing - The Sully Wing is the square-shaped set of buildings that surrounds the Cour Carree (named after the Duke of Sully). This includes the 16th century Lescot Wing and the remains of the Medieval Louvre. The Lescot Wing, completed in 1551, is the oldest preserved structure still standing at the Louvre. The Sully Wing also contains ancient Greek and Roman sculpture, works from the Italian Renaissance painting and French Neoclassical and Romantic paintings.
Touring the Louvre: To make the most of your time at the Louvre, we recommend you visit with some sort of a plan in mind. If self-guided, allow 90 minutes for your visit. If you are visiting with a guide and/or small group, allow 2-3 hours. Here are some of our favorite tours—both self-guided and guided:
Self Guided Tours: The Louvre has created several 90 minute self-guided tours that are very well curated and engaging which you can peruse here. Notably, these include a tour curated by the Louvre’s writer in residence as well as an Egypt-focused tour and a tour that highlights the art featured in Beyonce and Jay-Z’s APES**T music video, among other more traditional options.
Guided Tours: The Louvre also offers tours with an official museum guide. These are private tours and can be a good value if you have a large group—rates and booking information are available here. For small group or private tours led by experts and academics, Context Travel, the favorite tour operator of Going Places, offers a crash course here, which include the price of admission to the Louvre. They also offer 5:30 PM private tours on Friday when the museum is particularly quiet and open late.
Exiting the Louvre: Walk through the Tuileries gardens. Pick up a pastry or a coffee from one of the locales listed below or crack open a bottle of wine and watch Parisians and tourists walk by.
Other Notable Sites in the Historic Center
There is so much to see and do in Paris’s historic center. The above guide is designed to cover the greatest hits and gems in a morning or afternoon, but if you have more time or you have visited Paris before and covered the above sites, we suggest visiting the below:
Hidden Passageways & Haussmannian Architecture: The 1st and 2nd are filled with hidden passageways pre-date Baron Haussmann’s renovation of Paris. Coming soon: Our in-depth guide to exploring these hidden gems.
Musee de L’Orangerie: The Musee de L’Orangerie features a renowned collection of impressionist and post-impressionist artwork, most notably eight large panels of Claude Monet’s Water Lilies murals. The museum also features works by Paul Cezanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-August Renoir, Henri Rosseau and Alfred Sisley.
Practical Information: The Orangerie is open daily apart from Tuesdays. The museum stays open late until 9 PM on Fridays, which make for a magical visit. The museum is relatively small, so we recommend purchasing a time slot in advance to guarantee admission and minimize time waiting in lines—you can do so here. Holders of the Paris Museum Pass should select a time slot by making a “Free of Charge Reservation” here. Though you may notice many tour groups at the museum, we recommend skipping a tour here given that the museum is a manageable size and can often feel crowded. If you spend 10-15 minutes in Galleries 2 and 3 viewing the Water Lillies the crowds will temporarily subside which makes the viewing experience particularly magical.
History of the Museum: The museum was built in 1852 by Napoleon III for the purpose of storing citrus trees from the Tuileries Garden during the winter months (fun fact—prior to construction of the Orangerie, citrus trees were stored in the Grand Gallerie of the Louvre during the winter). The building’s agricultural purpose is reinforced by the capitals (or tops) of the columns which feature plants and cornucopias. In 1912 following World War I, the French government decided the building should for artistic purposes. Claude Monet was in the process of painting his Water Lilies at the time, which were ultimately donated to the museum. Later, the Orangerie was used as an extension of the Louvre, meant to host temporary exhibitions. However the Orangerie separated once more and expanded, following the donation of an extensive impressionist art collection by art dealers Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume.
What are Impressionism and Post-Impressionism? Impressionism and Post-Impressionism were developed in response to the state-controlled academies and salons of late 19th century France. Instead, Impressionists (and later Post-Impressionists) favored independent exhibitions and contemporary subject matters, in stark contrast to the tradition of depicting historical or mythological subjects. Impressionists were captivated by atmospheric effects—the effects of light, the atmosphere and movement—on their subjects. Famous impressionists include Bazille, Degas, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley and Cassatt. Post-Impressionism was a reaction to the Impressionist movement led by Cezanne, Gauguin, van Gogh and Seurat. This group of painters emphasized symbols, order and structure in their works rather than fleeting atmospheric effects. However, this does not mean they were concerned with portraying their subject matters with strict realism—indeed, colors used often bore no relation to their subject matter and instead served as symbols.
Notable Works:
Water Lilies (Claude Monet, 1914-26) - These are split into two galleries with four panels each. Gallery 2 contains Morning, Green Reflections, Sunset and Clouds. Monet was particularly interested in capturing atmospheric effects on his subjects, which is evident in the Water Lilies murals. Gallery 3 contains probably the most famous of the murals entitled Clear Morning, Willows, Two Willows, Reflections of Trees and Morning in the Willows.
Woman on the Couch (Henri Matisse, 1921) - Matisse’s Woman on the Couch is characteristic of the style now known as Fauvism and marked by the use of bold rather than naturalistic colors. Here, Matisse uses bright colors to capture the interior of a hotel room in Nice. Matisse’s focus on the expressionist impact of his work, rather than realism, is evident in this painting.
Paul Guillaume, New Pilot (Amadeo Modigliani, 1915) - Modigliani’s portrait of art dealer and collector Paul Guillaume features untraditional materials beyond the oil and canvas typically used by impressionists. A poor artist, Modigliani glued cardboard onto plywood as he could not afford expensive canvases. Guillaume was an early supporter of Modigliani—renting him a studio and promoting his work. Modigliani expressed his gratitude in four portraits of the art dealer—in this particular work, Guillaume is just 23 years old, but oozes with maturity and elegance given his suit, nonchalant expression and rich dark red background.
Pommes et Biscuits (Paul Cezanne, 1880) - Post-impressionist painter Paul Cezanne is often called the father of modern art, credited with bridging the 19th century Impressionist movement with 20th century Cubism. This work reveals his mastery of still life paintings, despite the fact that still life was relatively unpopular during his lifetime. This balanced composition highlights the depth and volume Cezanne was able to achieve by just using color.
Portrait de Mademoiselle Chanel (Marie Laurencin, 1923) - Fashion lovers will appreciate this portrait of Coco Chanel, who, at the time of painting was a costume designer for Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes production of Le Train Bleu. Though rich and famous at the time, Chanel looks lifeless and wistful in this portrait, surrounded by two dogs and a dove—indeed, she did not like this portrayal and refused to purchase it from Laurencin.
Jeunes Filles au Piano (Auguste Renoir, 1892) - Music was a favorite subject of many Impressionists—this particular painting by Renoir, which depicts two young girls playing the piano, is one of at least seven versions in existence. Though the theme of the composition is rather classical, Renoir foregoes too much detail to focus on the effects of light and movement on the two central figures.
Women at the Fountain (Pablo Picasso, 1921) - This work is one of two studies Picasso painted while staying in Fontainebleau during the summer of 1921. The final result, Three Women at the Fountain, is currently displayed at the New York MoMA and marks the beginning of Picasso’s neoclassical period.
Tuileries Garden:
History: The Tuileries Garden was created in 1564 by Catherine de Medici as part of the Tuileries Palace. Her vision was to create an Italian Renaissance garden and she employed Florentine landscape architect Bernard de Carnesse to design and oversee the project. In the mid 1600s, Louis XIV’s superintendent of buildings commissioned a man named Andre Le Notre to redesign the garden, whose father and grandfather had been gardeners at the Tuileries previously (the latter directly working for Catherine de Medici). Le Notre aimed to create a French style garden a la Versailles based on symmetry and order. Following the redesign and somewhat randomly due to the request of Charles Perrault (famed author of fairy tales such as Sleeping Beauty), the garden became the first royal garden open to the public in 1667. Following the death of Louis XIV and during the first French Revolution, the Tuileries Garden became a celebration place for revolutionary holidays and festivals. One of the most famous events organized by Robespierre to honor the Cult of the Supreme Being was held here and featured the burning of mannequins representing atheism, ego and ambition (among other qualities) in favor of wisdom. The gardens were routinely damaged and repaired during the period of unrest. In 1800 Napoleon Bonaparte moved into the Tuileries Palace just before he declared himself Emperor. He added the famous Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel to the garden—if it looks familiar it is because it was heavily influenced by the triumphal arch of Septimus Severus in Rome. After the second French revolution, fall of the Second Republic and the rise of Emperor Napoleon III, the beautiful Musee de l’Orangerie and Jeau de Paume were added to the garden. Though the garden was repeatedly destroyed between the capture of Napoleon III and the end of World War II, it has mostly maintained the same layout, save for the addition of statues which today include works by Rodin, Maillol and Debuffet.
Our Favorite Places in the Tuileries:
Grand Carre: The Grand Carre (meaning “large square”) is a beautiful example of the traditional, symmetrical French garden and features vibrant flowers and a variety of statues. Head to the small fountain on the Rue de Rivoli side where you can rent (or observe) small colorful boats to push on the water.
Bassin Octagonal: This is the largest fountain in the gardens and is a prime people-watching spot. Grab a bottle of wine or a snack and post up here. If you’re looking to get your art fix, both the Musee de l’Orangerie (described above) and Jeu de Paume (former sporting court turned post-modern art and photography museum) are located nearby.
Terrasse du Bord de l’Eau: The Terrasse du Bord de l’Eau (the “Water Side Terrace”) overlooks, you guessed, the Seine. This long promenade is dotted with classically Parisian green chairs, tables and benches perfect for watching the world go by.
Musee des Arts Decoratifs: Those who love the decorative arts (including furniture, interior design, ceramics, gold and silver work, jewelry, textiles, fashion and graphic arts) will love the Museum of Decorative Arts (often called “MAD”), which occupies the Pavillion de Marsan, part of the Louvre complex. Exhibitions frequently change, but the famous period rooms feature several items that are worth a visit if you have the time including portions of fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin’s home from the early 1920s, graphic artist Eugene Grasset’s dining room from 1880 and the 1752 Gold Cabinet of Avignon. MAD is open daily apart from Mondays and late until 9 PM on Thursdays. Though the museum is not one of the most famous in Paris, as always we recommend you purchase tickets in advance—if you hold a Paris Museum Pass, you must reserve a time slot to visit in advance. You can purchase tickets or reserve your time slot here.
Eating, Drinking & Shopping in the Historic Center
Note that all locations listed below are included on the map at the top of this post.
Restaurants: The historic center is not necessarily known for Paris’s best dining scene, but there are a handful of gems worth visiting:
Au Pied de Cochon: Au Pied de Cochon which translates to “pig trotters” decided in 1947 to open its doors 24/7 to serve workers and vendors at the historic Les Halles market (now a Westfield mall, alas). The casual brasserie offers many adventurous bites for the offal-curious as well as French brasserie classics like their legendary French onion soup. As a note, the restaurant now closes from 5 AM - 8 AM.
La Bourse et La Vie: Daniel Rose’s take on a Parisian bistro features classic French dishes with an elevated twist. The chocolate mousse is not to be missed.
Classic cafes on the Ile Saint Louis are Le Saint-Regis and L’Orangerie (described above).
Cafes & Tea Rooms:
Angelina: Famed for its hot chocolate (go figure) this Parisian tea room often draws long lines of tourists. Their hot chocolate is delicious and worth a stop if you can avoid the crowds (try weekdays mid-morning).
Wild and the Moon: If you are craving a reset after one too many consecutive steak frites, Wild and the Moon is a delicious, healthy and plant-based restaurant that is beloved by the fashion set. Stop by for a sit down meal or grab some provisions to enjoy in the Tuileries Gardens.
Ritz Paris - Salon Proust or Bar Vendome: For a memorable and delicious afternoon, splurge on tea time at the Ritz in famed Salon Proust. An extensive selection of tea and champagne is available to accompany the delicious pastries prepared by Francois Perret. A selection of gourmet sandwiches and savory bites are also available. For a more traditional tea experience, visit Bar Vendome which offers a sweet and savory tea time with scones, tea sandwiches and pastries.
Patisseries & Chocolatiers:
Stohrer: The oldest patisserie in Paris founded in 1730 by King Louis XV’s pastry chef, Nicolas Stohrer.
Cedric Grolet Opera & La Patisserie du Meurice: Master patissier Cedric Grolet shares his bold creations.
Ritz Paris Le Comptoir: Lavish pastries created by Francois Perret.
Maison Moinet: Famed candy store on the Ile Saint Louis.
Coffee Shops:
Cafe Kitsune (Louvre and Palais Royal): Trendy coffee shop with several locations in the 1st.
Noir: Parisian chain focused on Arabica coffees.
Bars & Nightlife: Our recommendations for bars and nightlife in the historic center are focused on reviving the joie de vivre of Parisians past.
Harry’s Bar (2nd Arr.): Hearkening back to the age of some of the most famous Americans in Paris from Hemingway to Gertrude Stein, Harry’s New York Bar was quite literally shipped across the Atlantic in pieces (the bar itself was previously located on 7th avenue in Manhattan) during the early 1900s. Today, the bar serves exquisite cocktails and a downstairs piano bar featuring the very piano where George Gershwin composed “Americans in Paris.” The legendary haunt has since partnered with a variety of modern brands, most recently Rowing Blazers.
Bar Hemingway (1st Arr.): Named after Ernest Hemingway a penniless writer who was enamored by the glamorous parties hosted at the Ritz, Bar Hemingway pays homage to iconic cocktails and the legendary guests who have enjoyed them over the years. Bar Hemingway does not take reservations and is open from 5:30 PM - 12:30 AM. Visit during a weekday just as it opens to snag one of the 25 coveted seats.
Experimental Cocktail Club (2nd Arr.): Located in Paris’s charming Montorgueil neighborhood, Experimental Cocktail Club has been heralded as the birthplace of the craft cocktail movement since its inception in 2007. A dramatic departure from the more formal previous recommendations, the bar’s founders proclaim on their website “stop by if you’re thirst, we’ll do our best to find your a spot”.
Le Duc des Lombards (2nd Arr.): This long-running jazz club offers performances from up and coming jazz artists and musical legends from Paris and beyond. Be sure to reserve a seat online for guaranteed entry.
The Bar at Loulou (1st Arr.): This chic bar located in the Tuileries Gardens is the perfect spot for a drink (or lunch). The clientele is stylish and the food is expensive (and mostly forgettable), but Loulou really shines as a stop for a drink.
Shops
La Samaritaine (1st Arr.): Iconic Art Nouveau department store and hotel selling luxury goods—for an in-depth description, see above.
Astier de Villatte (1st Arr.): Artisanal ceramics workshop also offering candles, perfume, soaps and home goods.
Nose (2nd Arr.): Boutique featuring a curated selection of French fragrances and skincare products. Read our in-depth guide to fragrance in Paris here.
Messika (1st Arr.): Parisian jewelry house offering demi-fine and fine jewelry.
La Ferme Saint-Aubin (Ile St. Louis): Local cheese shop offering a wide selection of cheese perfect for enjoying along the banks of the Seine.
Faubourg Saint-Germain and Rue de Rivoli: Various high street and luxury shops are located along these two streets and on the Place Vendome. Read our in-depth guide to luxury shopping in Paris, including a price calculator, here.
Les Halles (Grand Pharmacie du Forum): Le Halles was once Paris’s central fresh food market. However, it closed in 1973 and has since been transformed into a shopping mall. There generally isn’t much to see here other than the Grand Pharmacie du Forum, which is our favorite pharmacy in Paris. For an in-depth guide to French pharmacies, see here.