Guide to Feeling Like a Real Parisian in the Right Bank (Marais + 11th)
The Marais
Overview & Map of Our Favorite Places
The Marais, historically known as "The Swamp," encompasses the 3rd and 4th arrondissements of Paris and boasts a diverse array of architectural styles. Historically, the Marais referred only to the 4th arrondissement (now called the “Old Marais”) and the 3rd was considered the Haut Marais (the “uppper Marais”).
During the Middle Ages, the cobblestone streets were jam packed with narrow houses. During the 16th and 17th centuries, however, the Marais evolved into a hub for noble residences and bourgeois mansions. These large single family homes, called hotels particulers, adorned with Renaissance and Baroque elements have been preserved throughout the district through today.
Our favorite way to explore the Marais is on foot—meandering through the winding streets and leafy squares. Our neighborhood map includes our favorite historic spots as well as recommendations for bites, sips and shopping along the way.
A Perfect Morning of Afternoon Walk in the Marais
We recommend starting your exploration of the Marais from the Hotel de Ville Metro stop and working your way east to end in the eastern part of the 4th or the 11th, which are home to some of our favorite restaurants and bars. For full descriptions of the sites along this route, please read further below.
From the Hotel de Ville Metro stop, walk east. Stop in the BHV Marais if you are in the mood to shop, otherwise, continue along the Rue de Rivoli and make a right on the Rue du Pont Louis-Phillipe. Stop at Le Peloton Cafe for a craft coffee among local Parisians and duck into the Rue des Barres to see centuries-old wood framed homes that still stand among more modern Parisian buildings.
Head back out to the Rue du Pont Louis-Phillipe and head north, stopping at Aux Marvielleux de Fred for a delicious marvielleux pastry or a decadent brioche. Exit the store and make a right on the Rue Francois Miron, continuing east on the Rue Francois Miron past the intersection—you will notice the historic Hotel de Beauvais and Hotel Henaut of Cantobre to your right.
Continue along the narrow Rue Saint-Antoine until it meets back up with the Rue de Rivoli. Walk a few blocks and stop in front of the Hotel de Sully (it will be on your right) to admire what was once a beautiful private mansion.
Just past the Hotel de Sully, make a left up the Rue de Birague to enter the Place des Vosges. Stop to explore Victor Hugo’s house on the southeast corner, lounge in the middle of the picturesque square or grab a famous hot chocolate at Carrette in the northwest corner.
Once you’ve finished, leave out the north entrance and make an immediate left to walk along the Rue des Francs Bourgeois. Spend an hour (or more) at the newly-renovated Musee Carnavalet which explores the history of Paris.
Spend the rest of your time wandering northward and stopping at whatever chic boutique or quaint cafe piques your interest. End in time for lunch or a snack at the Marche des Enfantes Rouges.
Major Museums
Musee Carnavalet
The Musee Carnavelet traces its origins back to February 25, 1880, when it opened its doors to the public within the Carnavalet mansion. Today, the museum offers a captivating journey through the rich tapestry of Parisian history, spanning over 450 years.
Originally constructed in the mid-16th century for Jacques des Ligneris, President of the Paris Parliament, the Carnavalet mansion, also known as the Hôtel des Ligneris, underwent significant transformations over the centuries. The esteemed architect François Mansart, known for establishing classicism in Baroque architecture, elevated the mansion's grandeur in the 17th century, while esteemed figures like the witty, letter-writing aristocrat Madame de Sévigné graced its halls with their presence.
In 1866, amidst the sweeping urban renovations orchestrated by Baron Haussmann, the City of Paris acquired the mansion, envisioning its transformation into a historical museum. This marked the beginning of a new chapter for the Carnavalet mansion, as it became a repository of Parisian heritage and culture.
Over the years, the museum underwent substantial expansions and enhancements, incorporating adjacent buildings like the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau in 1989. These additions facilitated the museum's evolution into a comprehensive institution, chronicling the multifaceted history of Paris from prehistory to the present day.
At the heart of the museum's allure lies its extensive and diverse collections, meticulously curated over 150 years. Today, the Musee Carnavalet houses over 618,000 items that collectively narrate the captivating story of the French capital. From Napoleon's campaign kit to Marcel Proust's personal effects, the museum's treasures offer poignant glimpses into the lives and legacies of notable individuals who shaped Parisian history.
Practical Information: Address: 23, rue de Sevigne, 73003 Paris, France. Hours: 10 AM - 6 PM Tuesday - Sunday, closed Mondays and bank holidays. Access to the museum is free for all visitors and can be accessed without booking. The museum’s collection is expansive and slightly overwhelming, so to keep things manageable, we recommend downloading the museum’s free app here and following one of the pre-made itineraries. Alternatively, this would be a good venue for a guided tour.
Centre Pompidou
The Centre Pompidou, officially known as the Centre National D'art et de Culture Georges-Pompidou, stands as a testament to modern architecture and cultural innovation in the heart of the Marais. Designed by the renowned architectural team of Richard Rogers (notable works: Lloyds of London, the European Court of Human Rights in Strasbourg, the Millennium Dome in London) and Renzo Piano (notable works: the Shard in London, Art Institute of Chicago), the Centre Pompidou is an emblem of high-tech architecture, boasting exposed structural elements and vibrant colors on its exterior. The center's design was a departure from traditional architectural norms, featuring an 'inside-out' approach where functional elements such as plumbing and electrical systems were boldly displayed on the exterior. This unconventional design sparked both admiration and controversy.
Opened to the public in 1977 by President Valéry Giscard d'Estaing, the Centre Pompidou houses a diverse array of cultural institutions within its complex. These include the Public Information Library, the Musée National d'Art Moderne (the largest museum for modern art in Europe), and IRCAM, a center for music and acoustic research. Throughout its history, the Centre Pompidou has attracted millions of visitors from around the world, becoming a hub for cultural exchange and artistic exploration. Major exhibitions held at the center have showcased the works of influential artists such as Picasso, Dalí and Warhol, among others.
The Centre Pompidou boasts a rich collection of 20th-century masterpieces, offering visitors a diverse and captivating artistic experience. Among the highlights are Marc Chagall's poignant portrayal of love amidst impending war in "The Bride and Groom of the Eiffel Tower," Henri Matisse's vibrant "Two Dancers" and "The Sadness of the King," and Piet Mondrian's iconic "New York City." Kandinsky's symbolic "Mit dem schwarzen Bogen," Yves Klein's mesmerizing blue monochromes, and Joan Miró's dynamic "Triptych Bleu I, Bleu II, Bleu III" are also included.
The museum is also home to several works of 3-D and experiential art. Christo’s wrapped objects are well-worth a visit and Jean Dubuffet's "The Winter Garden" invites visitors into a whimsical and contemplative space. The Agam Room, originally created for the private apartments of the Élysée Palace, featuring an immersive and colorful arrangement by Israeli artist Yaacov Agam.
Practical Information: Address: Place Georges-Pompidou, 75004 Paris, France. Hours: Wednesday - Monday 11 AM - 9 PM, closed Tuesdays. Visitors to the Centre Pompidou can enter from the West side, descending a sloped hill to reach the entrance. Ticket purchases can be made either at automatic ticket kiosks located directly inside the front doors or at traditional ticket windows in the back left corner of the hall. Tickets can also be purchased online ahead of time, which we always recommend. Additionally, there are two gift shops on the ground floor, one specializing in books and the other offering unique gift items related to the art inside the Pompidou. The Centre Pompidou is open every day except Tuesdays, and on the first Sunday of every month, admission is free.
Historical Sites
Place des Vosges
The Place des Vosges, originally known as the Place Royale, stands as the oldest planned square in Paris. Built between 1605 and 1612 under the patronage of King Henri IV, it was conceived as a true square, embodying one of Europe's earliest royal urban planning endeavors. The square replaced the Hôtel des Tournelles, where King Henri II was fatally wounded during a tournament, prompting its demolition by Catherine de' Medici.
Upon its completion, the Place Royale boasted uniform housefronts most likely designed by Jean Baptiste Androuet du Cerceau (designer of the Pont Neuf), characterized by red brick façades with stone quoins and steep blue slate roofs. Two pavilions adorn the square's north and south faces, offering grand entrances through triple arches. Despite its regal name, no monarch ever resided in the square, except for Anne of Austria briefly occupying the Pavilion de la Reine. Today, the Pavilion de la Reine is a stunning luxury hotel.
Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, the Place Royale was a hub for Parisian nobility, serving as a meeting place and social center. However, with the onset of the Revolution, its aristocratic ambiance shifted. Renamed the Place des Vosges in 1799, it honored the département of Vosges, the first to contribute taxes to the Revolutionary army. Although the Second Bourbon Restoration briefly restored its original name, the revolutionary designation returned during the Second Republic in 1870. Today, the Place des Vosges is adorned with linden trees surrounded by meticulously trimmed foliage, offering a serene oasis amidst the bustling cityscape.
Maison Victor Hugo
The Maison de Victor Hugo, located in the prestigious Place de Vosges within the Marais district, offers visitors a glimpse into the private life of the renowned French writer remembered for works such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables. Hugo resided in the mansion's second floor from 1832 to 1848, working on his writing. The museum allows visitors to explore Hugo's life stages before, during, and after his exile to Guernsey through his furniture, souvenirs, and interior design. The first floor hosts temporary exhibitions showcasing his drawings and literary illustrations.
Practical Information: Address: 6 Pl. des Vosges, 75004 Paris, France. Hours: 10 AM - 6 PM Sunday - Tuesday, closed Monday. Admission to permanent collections is free for all, while temporary exhibitions require payment.
Not that Kind of Hotel: Famous Mansions (“Hôtels”) of the Marais
Paris is filled with hotels—and no, not just the kind you can check into. Parisian hôtel particuliers, or private houses, are historic urban mansions that once housed noble single families during the 17th and 18th centuries. These often features private gardens and courtyards despite their location in the middle of a bustling city. Many are now in the hands of the state and preserved as historic sites—we’ve listed a notable few below:
Hôtel de Ville (5 rue Lobeau or at 29 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, France): Originally purchased in 1357 by Étienne Marcel, provost of the merchants of Paris, the beautiful Hotel de Ville today is Paris’s city hall. Throughout history, the Hotel de Ville witnessed significant events, including the French Revolution, where it served as the headquarters of both revolutionary and communard governments. Unfortunately, during the Paris Commune in 1871, the building was set ablaze, destroying much of its interior and historical archives. Reconstruction efforts, led by architects Théodore Ballu and Édouard Deperthes, began shortly after the fire and lasted from 1873 to 1892. The new building retained its original French Renaissance style while incorporating modern interior designs, showcasing lavish decorations and sculptures by prominent artists of the time. Since its reconstruction, the Hôtel de Ville has continued to play a vital role in Parisian politics and culture. It has been the venue for significant events, such as the proclamation of the French Third Republic in 1870 and a speech by Charles de Gaulle during the Liberation of Paris in 1944. Today, the Hôtel de Ville remains an important political venue, hosting city council meetings and serving as the office of the Mayor of Paris. It has also opened its doors to the public for special events, symbolizing accessibility and civic engagement in the heart of Paris.
Hôtel de Sully (62, rue Saint-Antoine, 75004 Paris, France): The Hôtel de Sully, an exquisite example of Louis XIII style architecture, graces the Marais district of Paris at 62 rue Saint-Antoine. Its origins trace back to the early 17th century when it was commissioned by the wealthy financier Mesme Gallet, along with gardens and an orangery, between 1624 and 1630. Designed to provide access to the Place Royale, now known as the Place des Vosges, the hôtel was part of a grand movement of construction in the fashionable Marais area. In 1634, Maximilien de Béthune, Duke of Sully and former Superintendent of Finances to King Henri IV, acquired the mansion, which was already completed and lavishly furnished. He undertook further embellishments and spent his final years there. Throughout the centuries, the Hôtel de Sully changed hands multiple times, undergoing various alterations to accommodate different occupants. However, its historical significance was recognized in 1862 when it was classified as a monument historique. Subsequent owners prioritized its conservation, leading to gradual restoration efforts. By 1944, the hôtel became state-owned property, and restoration work continued, culminating in the repair of the orangery in 1973. Since 1967, it has been the headquarters of the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques et des Sites, later known as the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. This public organization, overseen by the Ministry of Culture and Communication, is entrusted with the preservation and management of historic buildings and monuments under state care.
Hôtel de Beauvais (68 Rue François Miron, 75004 Paris, France): Hotel de Beauvais is a masterpiece of 17th century architrecture and is now home to the Administrative Court of Appeals of Paris. From the road, you can observe the building’s grand facade and balcony. However, the courtyard and its eight Doric columns are the true highlight of this site—though the Hotel de Beauvais is typically closed to the public, you can often sneak a peek inside if you ask a guard nicely or visit on a European Heritage Day.
Hotel Hénault de Cantobre (82 Rue François Miron, 75004 Paris, France): Constructed in 1706 for tax collector Hénault de Cantobre, Hotel Hénault de Cantobre showcases exemplary 18th-century classical architecture. Ownership changed hands several times, eventually becoming property of the city of Paris in 1914. In 1988, the city designated it as the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP). Architects Bernard Deroeux and Olivier Foures developed designs to adapt the building into a cultural institution. Yves Lion's architectural studio won the competition in 1990, emphasizing preservation of the building's charm while accommodating modern functionality. As a leading center for contemporary photography, the MEP features exhibition space, a library, a video viewing area, and an auditorium. It offers easy access to various photographic media—prints, printed materials, and films. The museum's collection includes works by renowned photographers like Robert Frank, Josef Koudelka, and Irving Penn, with temporary exhibitions covering diverse genres such as fashion, journalism, and art photography.
Notable Streets of the Marais
Rue de Rosiers: The Rue des Rosiers, translating to "street of the rosebushes," historically has been the heart of the Jewish quarter known as "the Pletzl," where special shopping hours were permitted due to the Jewish Sabbath falling on Saturdays. This exception allowed cafes and shops to remain open on Sundays and holidays, attracting a diverse crowd of visitors. In recent years, the character of Rue des Rosiers has evolved, with the traditional Jewish shops making way for trendy boutiques. Today, the street is renowned for its fashion scene.
Rue Pavee: The Synagogue at 10 rue Pavée, designed by architect Hector Guimard (creator of the famous Paris Metro entrances) in 1913, stands as a testament to the Art Nouveau movement. Situated in a neighborhood where Ashkenazi Jews sought refuge from Central Europe, the synagogue embodies the transition from the modern style to the aesthetic of the 1920s. Constructed with reinforced concrete, the building's ornamentation exhibits simplicity, while its façade boasts elegant curves and counter-curves, showcasing a harmonious blend of architectural elements.
Rue St. Antoine: The Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, one of Paris's oldest streets, connects the Place de la Bastille to the Place de la Nation. It derives its name from the nearby Saint-Antoine abbey, which existed until the 18th century. Since medieval times, it has been a bustling hub of trade, particularly renowned for its cabinetmakers who established workshops there from the 15th century onwards. Even into the 20th century, the street remained lined with workshops, warehouses, and furniture shops. Today, while many of these have given way to ready-to-wear shops, decoration stores, restaurants, and bars, the street continues to thrive. Surrounding it are hidden courtyards and passages with names evoking its artisanal past, where traditions are upheld by lacquerers, gilders, and upholsterers.
Rue des Francs-Bourgeois: Unlike many French streets, rue des Francs-Bourgeois remains lively even on Sundays, attracting crowds for brunches and leisurely walks. Along its length are several notable buildings, including the historic Hôtel Carnavalet, home to the Museum of the History of Paris. Famed author Jack Kerouac humorously translated its name as the "street of the outspoken middle class."
Where to Eat, Drink and Shop in the Marais
Lunch & Dinner
Bistrot des Tournelles (6 Rue des Tournelles, 75004): Named best bistro of the year in 2023, Bistrot des Tournelles serves classic French dishes like tart Tatin and steak au poivre in a warm, convivial setting.
Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003): This casual bistro offers delicious, Provençal dishes and is popular with locals. Dessert lovers will enjoy the all-you-can-eat chocolate mousse.
Benoit (20 Rue Saint-Martin, 75004): This classic 1912 bistro helmed by Alain Ducasse was awarded a Michelin star for its perfectly executed Parisian dishes.
Parcelles (13 Rue Chapón, 75003): Parcelles straddles the line between French bistro food and fine dining with a menu that changes daily and is frequented by a hip, local crowd. The restaurant is known for their extensive wine list featuring over 1,000 bottles.
Le Collier de la Reine (57 Rue Charlot, 75003): Hip, seafood restaurant Le Collier de la Reine (meaning the queen’s necklace) is located in the northern Marais and offers super fresh seafood and delicious cocktails. It is also a great place to people watch stylish Parisians and enjoy what are rumored to be the best fries (pommes frites) in Paris.
Where to Eat Anytime - If you’re jetlagged or looking for somewhere to eat between lunch and dinner, we suggest the below, which offer continuous service throughout the day.
Café Charlot (39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003): Cafe Charlot is frequented by locals and expats alike and is the perfect place to spend an afternoon enjoying a classic french dish (think croque monsieurs and French onion soup) and a drink.
Bofinger (5-7 Rue de la Bastille, 75004): Bofinger is a historic Bell Epoque brasserie where the Alsatian food is just as rich as the over the top decor. It is also a very large restaurant making it useful for when you forgot to make a reservation.
Bouillon Republique (39 Boulevard du Temple, 75003): Located in the former space of the historic Chez Jenny, Bouillon Republique is one of several Bouillon locations offering delicious and surprisingly affordable dishes. You may notice a line at peak dining times—wait it out with a glass of wine or try to make a reservation in advance.
Quick Bites
Le Marche des Enfants Rouges (39 rue de Bretagne, 75003): The Marche des Enfants Rougest is Paris’s oldest covered market (dating as far back as 1615) and features several great options for quick bites. Our favorite is Chez Alain Miam Miam but the food spans the gamut from Turkish to Indian and is all delicious. If there isn’t enough seating inside, head over to the Square du Temple Elie-Wiesel and grab a seat on a bench in the sun.
Chez Alain Miam Miam (Marche des Enfants Rouges & 26 rue de Charlot, 75003): Chez Alain Miam Miam boasts two locations—one in the Marche des Enfants Rouges and one down the street nearby. We highly recommend going to the standalone location and arriving before 12:30 PM as the line can get somewhat long. You’ll enjoy delightful made-to-order sandwiches on light as air baguettes. Definitely ask for comte cheese as one of your toppings.
La Baguette du Relais (10 rue des Archives, 75004): From the Relais d’Entrecote empire comes their fast casual sandwich stop, La Baguette du Relais, which serves (you guessed it), steak frites on a baguette. While this seems a bit gimmicky, it is absolutely delicious and perfect for sharing.
Miznon (22 rue des Ecouffes, 75004): No guide to the Marais would be complete without a shoutout to Miznon, a delicious Israeli restaurant specializing in pita sandwiches, falafel and kebabs. The bouef bourguignon pita is particularly delicious.
Janet by Homer (13 rue Rambuteau, 75004): A New York deli in… Paris? You got that right. One of the best pastrami sandwiches is in Paris’s 4th arrondissement. The pastrami here is boiled, smoked and cured for 10 days in a proprietary spice blend and then served on a rye brioche bread, putting a French spin on an American classic.
Breizh Cafe Marais (109 rue Vielle du Temple, 75003): Breizh Cafe is a small group of creperies scattered throughout the city offering Brittany style buckwheat crepes and cider that are loved by tourists and locals alike.
Coffee
Le Peloton Cafe (17 rue du Pont Louis-Phillippe 75004): Down the road from Hotel de Ville is Le Peloton Cafe, a specialty coffee shop that also serves as a hub for Parisian bike enthusiasts. Stop by for a delicious espresso beverage and to see local Parisians hanging out.
Terres Cafe (14 rue Rambuteau, 75004 & 36 rue des Blancs Manteaux, 75004): Terres Cafe is a specialty coffee shop in the Marais offering small batch roasted coffee from around the world.
Pastries, Sweets and Snacks
Aux Merveilleux de Fred (24 rue Pont Louis-Phillipe): It would be a crime not to enjoy a pastry alongside your coffee, so stop into Aux Merveilleux de Fred to sample one of their famed merveilleux (french for “wonderful”) pastries—delicious light merengues held together with whipped cream and rolled in chocolate. Alternatively, Aux Merveilleux’s broiches are rich, fluffy and best enjoyed straight out of the oven.
Maison Aleph (20 rue de la Verrerie, 75004): Maison Aleph offer’s Levantine inspired pastries rooted in French technique. Enjoy one of their many seasonal fruit tarts or better yet, try one of everything.
Carette (25 Pl. des Vosges, 75003): Stop by famed Carette for a hot chocolate with creme chantilly while you sit under the archways of Place des Vosges. This location also offers pastries (which are delicious) as well as savory bites (which are mostly skippable).
Bontemps (57 rue de Bretagne, 75003): Bontemps’s elegant, vintage aesthetic carries over to their nostalgic and delicate pastries which include sables, tarts and cookies. The store is worth a stop if not just to feast with your eyes (but we recommend getting a bite-sized pastry to go).
Bars and Nightlife
La Mary Celeste (1 Rue Commines, 75003): This famed cocktail and oyster bar is named after the storied ghost ship and features nods to its nautical namesake throughout. Cocktails and bites here are delightful.
The Cambridge Public House (8 rue de Poitou, 75003): This English pub earned itself a spot on the World’s 50 Best Bar lists and a stop in makes it obvious why—offering classic British snacks and seasonal cocktails.
Sherry Butt (20 rue Beautreillis, 75004): This trendy cave-like bar was created by alums of Experimental Cocktail Club, one of the earliest craft cocktail bars in Paris. The drinks are excellent and the ambiance feels like you are sitting in your chicest friend’s living room.
Candelaria (52 rue Saintonge, 75003): Candelaria is a buzzy hidden gem behind a door in a taqueria serving up excellent tacos and top-notch cocktails.
Magnum La Cave (26 rue Beautreillis, 75004): Magnum is a lovely wine bar focused on natural wine, a winemaking style that has taken Paris by storm. This bar does offer many 1.5L magnums of wine and is packed with character inside. The outside terrace is often bustling as well on warm summer evenings.
Donna (157 rue Saint-Martin, 75003): Donna is a new natural wine bar located near the Centre Pompidou that has excellent small plates and a DJ later in the evening. Perfect for a chill night-turned party-with friends.
Shop
Fleux (39 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004): Fleux is a lifestyle, design and home decor store that spans three locations over a city block in the Marais. Here you will find the latest in trendy and design-forward dinnerware, lighting, vases, etc.
Izrael Le Monde des Epices (30 rue Francois Miron, 75004): Izrael carries unique spices from around the world as well as candied fruit, nuts, beans and preserved goods. It has an old world bazaar feel to it and despite its tiny size, one could easily spend hours perusing the unique offerings.
Maison La Biche (105 rue Vielle du Temple): Maison Labiche is a staple for the fashion set, offering embroidered and perfectly tailored mens and womenswear. They are particularly well known for their shirts and this shop offers embroidery on-site so you can have your new favorite French saying added to a shirt in an instant.
Papier Tiger (5 rue des Filles du Calvaire, 75003): This beautiful stationary store offers various paper goods with unexpected and playful designs.
Melodies Graphiques (10 rue du Pont Louis-Phillipe, 75004): This old-school stationary store offers elegant and traditional stationary perfect for bringing home to friends and family.
Merci (111 Bd Beaumarchais, 75003): Merci offers a curated selection of clothes, accessories and home goods in a three-story loft building. The store features both independent designers and its own brand (which is quite affordably priced).
BHV Marais (52 rue de Rivoli, 75004): We are obsessed with the BHV Marais department store. While it isn’t nearly as luxurious or design-forward as some of the others we cover on this site (looking at you La Samaritaine, Printemps and Le Bon Marche), it has everything you could possibly wish for from luxury fashion to affordable clothing to stationary, home goods, souvenirs and more.
The 11th Arrondissement
The 11th Arrondissement is lively and vibrant and filled with Parisians. You won’t run into many tourists in this area. The 11th, which is often called onzieme or Popincourt (after one of the most popular districts in the area) was historically industrial, so there aren’t as many historic monuments here. Today, it is a hotspot for hip new restaurants and nightlife and eating and drinking your way through the 11th is exactly how we recommend you spend an afternoon or evening here.
The Place de la Bastille is one of the major public squares in the 11th and was the birthplace of the French Revolution and home to the famous Bastille prison. There are no remains of the prison here, but you may find yourself visiting the neighborhood to see a performance at Opera Bastille. The other major public square is the Place de la Republique, which borders the 3rd and the 10th arrondisements.
Rue de Charonne is a quaint street filled with small cafes and bars, while the gritty rue Oberkampf is a major nightlife hub as well as home of small boutiques and street art.
Where to Eat, Drink and Shop in the 11th
Restaurants
Septime (80 rue de Charonne, 75011) - Michelin-starred Septime is nearly impossible to get a reservation at but is absolutely worth the hype for its ever-changing set menu of seasonal dishes.
If/when you give up on trying to snag a seat at Septime, we recommend visiting their a la carte sister restaurant Clamato, which is focused on fresh local seafood and is walk-in only.
Le Chardenoux (1 rue Jules Valles, 75011) - Le Chardenoux’s stunning interior is filled with historic details, like a 100-year-old marble bar and hand painted ceilings. The menu is seasonally updated with a focus on seafood. The chef also operates a nearby bakery as well as a chocolate shop, which are well worth a stop.
Le Clown Bar (114 Rue Amelot, 75011) - Le Clown Bar was one of the early innovators in the 11th that put the neighborhood on the map in the food world. The food is exciting and sometimes a bit intimidating—think everything from sake-steamed mussels to veal brain.
Mokonuts (5 rue Saint-Bernard, 75011) - Mokonuts is run by a French-Lebanese and Japanese-American couple who execute dishes infused with their respective heritages at the highest level. While you will mostly find English-speakers at this spot which has notoriously long waits (reservations are hard to come by), the food is so well done you will wonder why Parisians don’t brave the crowds more often. You can visit their sister restaurant, Mokoloco which is open for lunch and dinner (also takes dinner reservations).
Le Bistrot Paul Bert (18 rue Paul Bert, 75011): We dined at Le Bistrot Paul Bert about five years ago *before it was cool* and no list would be complete without a mention of this Parisian bistro that absolutely nails the classics. Unfortunately, though, since the restaurant gained so much popularity and the only means of making a reservation are by phone, it has become nearly impossible to get a table let alone speak to anyone on the phone. If you do manage to get a table (try asking the concierge at your hotel), savor. every. minute.
Le Chateaubriand (129 Ave Parmentier, 75011): Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte helms this uberinventive Le Chateaubriand which features a menuless prix fixe adventure not for the faint of heart accompanied by perfect wine parings. For a slightly more approachable a la carte option, check out the sister wine bar Le Dauphin next door.
Bars
Le Perchoir (14 rue Crespin du Gast, 75011): Le Perchoir has multiple locations in the city, with a particularly notable location in the Marais with a great view of the Eiffel Tower, but this cocktail bar in the 11th has a more local feel with great views to boot.
Aux Deux Amis (45 rue Oberkampf, 75011): Repeat after us: Wine bars are cool in Paris. Truly. Outside every wine bar you will see throngs of chic, young Parisians crushing glasses of glou glou natural wine (Americans could never). Despite its appearance as a seemingly divey and nondescript natural wine bar, Aux Deux Amis is a party with a rowdy vibe, loud music and excellent people watching. The bar is typically standing room only and is a great place to get your night started.
Moonshiner (5 rue Sedaine, 75011): Moonshiner is one of the many speakeasies in the 11th which features Art Deco decor and delightful yet affordable cocktails behind the door of a walk in refrigerator in Pizza da Vito. If you love this spot, check out Dirty Dick and L’ORange Mecanique by the same owners.
Septime La Cave (3 rue Basfroi, 75011): Famed Septime restaurant also operates a wine bar around the corner which is filled with hip Parisians and 10 rotating wines by the glass (plus an extensive bottle selection). They also serve a handful of well-executed bar snacks.
Bakeries
Ten Belles Bread (17-19 bis rue Breguet, 75011): Part coffee shop/part bakery, Ten Belles Bread elevates traditionally British baked goods like Cornish pasties and flaky sausage rolls with French elegance.
Boulangerie Utopie (20 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011): There is often a line around the block of Boulangerie Utopie which serves what have been called the best baguettes in Paris (among other pastries).
Patisserie Cyril Lignac (24 rue Paul Bert, 75011): Famed patissier Cyril Lignac focuses on breads and pastries at this location—try the Equinoxe with notes of speculoos, vanilla and salted caramel for a particularly decadent treat.
Boulangerie Chambelland Oberkampf (14 rue Ternaux, 75011): Gluten free travelers rejoice! With serveral locations throughout Paris, Boulangerie Chambelland serves delightful gluten free pastries using their own in-house milled gluten-free grains.