The Perfume Lover’s Guide to Paris
Perfume, a timeless symbol of allure and sophistication, is synonymous with French elegance.
With origins in ancient civilizations such as the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans, perfume initially served religious and seductive purposes. Its arrival in Europe, marked by the return of Crusaders in the 13th century, introduced new toiletry habits and sparked the birth of French perfumery. Notably, in 1370, the first French perfume, the water of the Queen of Hungary which featured notes of rosemary, emerged.
The Renaissance era further elevated French perfumery, especially with the arrival of Catherine of Medici at the French court, accompanied by her perfumer, René the Florentine. This period also saw Grasse, renowned for cultivating perfume plants and crafting fragrant essences, solidify its position in the perfume world. Louis XIV's fondness for fragrances enhanced perfume's status as a symbol of refinement and opulence. Despite a brief decline during the French Revolution, perfume regained prominence, propelled by a burgeoning demand among the bourgeoisie.
By the late 19th century, Paris emerged as the epicenter of fragrance production, aided by Baron Haussmann's urban renovations and more widespread use of synthetic materials. The Guerlain dynasty, with creations like Jicky in 1889, played a pivotal role in establishing French perfumery's international renown. The French expertise in perfumery extended beyond Europe, capturing markets in the United States and beyond. With the advent of niche perfumery, the "made in France" label became synonymous with unparalleled quality and prestige, cementing French perfumery's enduring legacy as a pinnacle of luxury and elegance.
Experiencing the Tradition of French Perfumery in Paris: The Musee du Parfum
Paris offers visitors the opportunity to learn about and engage in the tradition of perfumery via educational and experiential routes.
For those interested in a more structured exploration of perfume, we recommend visiting the Musee du Parfum in the 9th. The Musee du Parfum which was created by French perfume house Maison Fragonard, highlights the history of perfume since antiquity and takes visitors through the perfume making experience. The museum is free to visit. On Saturdays, visitors can step into the shoes of a perfumer and learn about the art and science of perfume making while creating their own eau du cologne. Classes are in French, but some English translations may be available. Book via calling the number listed here.
However, our preferred way to be immersed in the history of French fragrance is by visiting French fragrance houses and perfume shops ourselves. Our favorites are below.
Perfume Houses of Paris
Guerlain - While this location at No. 68 Champs Elysees was not French fragrance house Guerlain’s oldest location, it is now the flagship of the storied fragrance brand and features a look into the company’s history dating back to 1828 as the official perfumer of European royal courts. Today, perfumer Theirry Wasser has re-created 30 of Guerlain’s famous but discontinued scents by using the original Guerlain recipe book and deciphering Aime Guerlain’s hand-written notes in the margins. Wasser has also revived the tradition of perfumed glove making; you may view and purchase luxury gloves scened with the Maison’s Le Robe Noir. The tradition of scented glovemaking dates back to the Medicis and France’s royal court who were keen to protect themselves against foul odors. The Maison also offers personalized perfume bottles at this location.
Fragonard - Established in 1926, Fragonard is one of France’s oldest perfumeries. They offer a wide range of scents in whimsical packaging at affordable price points relative to other luxury perfumers. Fragonard is particularly well known for the Estagon Collection which is packaged in aluminum bottles—this packaging was introduced during the war when glass became scarce and difficult to find. Our favorite scents from Fragonard include Diamant (a luxurious and warm, yet bright scent) and Etoile (a classic zesty, floral and earthy fragrance).
Annick Goutal - Goutal was founded in 1980 by Annick Goutal who has since become a leader in niche perfumery. The fragrance house offers simple yet sophisticated unisex scents in glass bottles. Today, Annick’s daughter Camille continues the brand’s legacy, drawing on her own personal experiences to create perfumes. Check out their scent Sables while abroad, which has notes of vanilla, amber and sandalwood that evoke Annick’s vacations in Corsica with her husband and is not widely available in the U.S.
L’Artisan Parfumeur - Established in 1976, L’Artisan Parfumeur handcrafts fragrances with natural scents. The brand’s classic scents have remained unchanged over the last 40 years. Fans of the widely-known Diptyque scent Figuer will fall in love with Primer Giguer which captures not only the scent of the fig, but also of the green, woody fig tree it hangs on.
Diptyque - Internationally renowned for their avant-garde scents and beautiful bottles and accessories, Diptyque has called Paris’s Left Bank its home since 1961. A visit to its original shop, 34 Blvd Saint-Germain, is a must for any perfume lover. This location also offers in-store engraving, which makes for a memorable souvenir. The brand also sells our all time favorite candle, the Paris limited edition scent, which we happily stocked up on during our last trip.
Le Labo - New kid on the block Le Labo was born in Grasse, France in 2006 and found its home in New York City’s trendy NoLiTa neighborhood. The brand is known for its city exclusives available only during the month of September worldwide and year round at stores in the applicable city. The Paris Le Labo scent Vanile 44 is a delightful woody vanilla and amber scent that we picked up in Paris a few years ago. Perfect for layering with other Le Labo scents like the classic Santal 33, we recommend stopping into Le Labo’s Paris showrooms to check this out.
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 - This is our favorite perfumer shop in Paris and is a must-see during your next trip. Founded in 1803 at 6 rue Bonaparte in Paris, Buly is a storied apothecary with stunning beauty products. Best known for their fragrances (our favorite is Ambre de Madagascar), the shop also offers luxurious bathing products and even manages to make toothpaste seem elegant in incredible packaging. Consider splurging on one of their personalized brushes or combs for an extravagant treat that will remind you of Paris every day.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian - Founded in 2009 by Francis Kurkdjian, the Maison creates timeless, bold scents using essential oils and encourages the wearer to break gender norms. The house’s Baccarat Rouge 540 has achieved cult-status today, but check out their sexy oud range.
Serge Lutens - Since he was just 14 years old, perfumer Serge Lutens has been immersed in the beauty world when he began working at a beauty salon. His illustrious career in the beauty world included working with Christian Dior to launch the Dior make up line in 1967, working with Shiseido in the 1980s and ultimately launching his namesake fragrance brand in 1992 with Feminite du bois. The unique, dreamlike design of his Palais Royal shop is the perfect backdrop for exploring the brand’s adventurous scents.
Bon Parfumeur - The youngest perfume line on our list is Bon Parfumeur, which was founded in 2016. The fragrance house offers a range of fragrances designed for layering and mixing and employees help visitors experiment with different combinations to find a semi-bespoke mix.
Jovoy - Jovoy Paris is a perfume house founded by Blanche Arvoy in 1923 and launched which just four fragrances. However, Arvoy started a new house, the house of Corday a year later, which she named after Charlotte Codray, a participant in the French revolution. In 2006 Francois Hénin resurrected Jovoy with the debut of a new range of fragrances and store near Place Vendome.
Frederic Malle - Malle was launched in 2000 by Frederic Malle, who has perfumery in his roots. His grandfather, Serge Heftler-Louiche, was the creator of Dior’s perfume line. Malle collaborated with many famed perfumers to create their dream fragrances using rare materials without the constraints of marketing or consumer testing. Malle’s shop in Paris has been beautifully designed by Jakob + MacFarlane and provide a stunning backdrop for testing some of the perfume house’s most famous scents like Angeliques sous la Pluie, Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur and Portrait of a Lady.
Pierre Guillaume - Pierre Guillaume is an independent perfumer from France who began crafting fragrances at the age of 25. His perfumes can be hard to find, so perfume fans should consider stopping in to smell the iconic Ani-Blues and Arabian Horse.
Etat libre d’Orange - Quirky fragrance house Etat Libre d’Orange (“Free State of Orange”) was founded by Etienne de Swardt in 2006. The house’s model is Le perfum est mort, vive le parfum? (“Perfume is dead, long live perfume) encapsulates the brand’s bold and unusual fragrances. Notable scents include You or Someone Like You (a fresh, floral scent) and Rien (a woody, leathery, cedar scent).
Multi-Brand Perfume Shops
Nose - This innovative shop helps customers find their own signature scent by curating fragrances into categories rather than by brand. After leaving Paris, fans of the store can continue to explore personalized scents by using Nose’s online survey for additional scent recommendations.
Sens Unique - Sens Unique offers a diverse range of niche perfume brands in a beautiful storefront which was recently renovated. Shop employees guide customers to explore new scents and find their personal favorite.